Late 18th Century Stays

Certain clothing styles have become synonymous with the 18th century, such as the conical torso and large skirts. Stays, a structured 17th and 18th century garment that created the classic conical shape, supporting the back and bust, were worn over a linen shift, followed by other figure shaping garments, such as petticoats or pads. The stays were an important aspect of a typical woman's wardrobe in the 18th century due to the support they provided working women, and the desired shape they created for affluent ladies. Depending on a woman's status and daily activities, the style of her stays varied. Some allowed women a full range of arm movement, while others pulled a woman's shoulders back, giving her the appearance of a fuller chest. Using a combination of modern technology and materials, traditional stitches, and natural materials, I have reproduced a pair of extant stays. In doing so, I have explored the ways in which the styles and materials differed according to class and woman, as well as the techniques utilized by staymakers of the mid to late 18th century. Both the materials and techniques utilized were to increase the longevity of the garment, as the bones and stitches were regularly under a great deal of stress. Throughout this process, my goal was to explore the ways in which garments were constructed, and the methods used, since their quality far surpassed any modern garments.